LE BAO, Columbia
November 2021
Jina Yoo’s trajectory to culinary success has been anything but conventional. Yoo relocated from South Korea to study pipe organ at Indiana University and became a classical pianist. She never dreamed that she would eventually open two Asian-inspired restaurants, consult at a third and teach other restaurateurs. However, in 2007, Jina Yoo’s Asian Bistro opened. It was so well received that she opened La Bao three years ago in the North Village Arts District.
“When I started out, I loved cooking but had no experience,” says Yoo. “Literally, the first day, we had a line outside. I had no idea which ticket to cook first, but I learned by experience.”
Recipes are original. Yoo’s process is to find a dish that she likes and study the ingredients before she makes it her own. She compares recipes to music where there’s always a melody, or outstanding flavor, with supporting notes complementing the main flavor profile.
Le Bao features an inventive counter-service menu combining Asian fusion with a contemporary American twist. Dumpling-like baos act like rice or noodles. Yoo stuffs them with American comfort food playing off traditional Asian flavors such as spicy pork, lemongrass chicken or shrimp tempura.
“Asian street food is super fun. When I visited my dad in Korea, he would take me to the market, and that was inspiring,” says Yoo. “I actually learned Korean recipes here, but my background helps me combine ingredients when I experiment.”
For dinner, my sister and I ordered several buns filled with lemongrass chicken, Philly cheesesteak and, most popular, fried chicken. Growing up, Yoo and her dad loved fried chicken, which is prepared differently in Korea. At the restaurant, Yoo brines the meat and uses a wet batter, Korean spices and an undisclosed flour—one of her trade secrets—all of which creates deliciously crispy fried chicken.
Bao dough, made daily from scratch, comes filled with barbecue pulled pork, vegetable curry and more. Jina’s chicken nachos, topped by black bean aioli, quickly became a favorite of ours. The hearty chicken Ramen bowl was served with steamy scratch broth and handmade noodles from New Jersey. Chili oil, swirled into the soup, delivered a satisfying kick.
To finish, we ordered both the fruit and s’mores variation of the “hotteok,” a filled sweet Korean pancake.
La Bao also sells a variety of beverages. The ultra-modern upstairs bar makes the perfect spot for happy hour or an event.
Visit LeBaoEatery.com for more information.
Downing Street Pour House, Hollister
August 2021
Just across the Lake Taneycomo Bridge from Branson Landing, Downing Street Pour House delivers a carefully crafted menu that will impress the most zealous foodie. Four local partners have enhanced tried-and-true dishes with their culinary prowess.
Located inside the 1912 Old English Inn, diners can choose from the pub-style interior or an expansive courtyard patio.
“We constantly cook at home and are trying new combinations,” says co-owner Jason Roberts. “Our goal is to tweak the flavor profile of our dishes to set them apart.”
The partners’ first restaurant on Branson’s strip, Gettin’ Basted, has earned a stellar reputation. Partner and pitmaster Brad Leighninger has garnered more than 50 Grand and Reserve Grand Championships and over 100 individual wins on the barbecue circuit. Downing Street serves his Basted Championship Wings—but the menu goes far beyond barbecue.
My husband and I lunched on Downing Street’s patio, where Roberts took us on a culinary tour. For starters, those award-winning wings were delish. They’re cooked over live Missouri hardwood and charcoal in Gateway Drum Smokers using a proprietary blend of spices. We also ordered poutine, a traditional Canadian dish of French fries and cheese curds topped with brown gravy. Hesitant at first, I became an instant fan scooping up the flavorful gravy made with house-made bone broth, red wine and thyme.
Known for their house-ground Kobe burgers, the “D” Street topped with peppery arugula, goat cheese, local honey and aioli, delivered a savory-sweet combo. The Black & Bleu came with caramelized onions, blue cheese, bacon and a yummy house-made blackberry sauce. Equally impressive, the Shepherd’s Pie contained traditional ground lamb and beef, pearl onions, peas, fresh rosemary and scratch gravy topped with a mashed potato-parmesan crust. The smoked corned beef—tender and surprisingly lean—attested to pitmaster Brad’s technique. Sides included a satisfying green chili cream corn Brule and brabont new potatoes thrown into the fryer for a crispy outside and creamy interior. Lighter dishes included the popular smoked chicken. Daily specials ranged from burnt end mac n’ cheese and soups such as carrot curry or chili.
In addition, the pub-style bar serves 16 beers on tap. Labels range from seasonal stouts to local ales from Springfield, St Louis and the Ozarks. Approximately one dozen wines round out their list.
Visit dspourhouse for more information.
J.C. Wyatt House, St. Joseph
May 2021
From New York City to the Midwest, partners Jeff Keyasko and Jim Pallone moved nearly 20 years ago in search of a saner lifestyle that would allow them to pursue their passion for hospitality. They found both in St. Joe.
After gutting the J.C. Wyatt House and renovating the 1891 brick Victorian to the era, they opened, first, as a bed and breakfast. Then in 2007, their love of good food brought them full circle when they reinvented their business and opened a restaurant.
Jeff trained at the French Culinary Institute in New York City. Back east, he specialized as a pastry chef, and the dessert trio included with the prix fixe meal is always something special. Jim, who formerly managed well-known Manhattan restaurants and now manages the business, welcomes and waits on guests, many who are longtime patrons and friends. He entertains diners with his knowledge of historic St. Joe and continually changes up the memorabilia displayed throughout the house.
“So many of our guests are like family, and we get invitations to their weddings and events, as well as to their homes for dinner,” says Jim.
Reservations are a must since the restaurant seats 40, less with current social distancing. Diners order entrées ahead of time on the website, but the starter changes daily. Tried-and-true starters are paired alongside more adventurous offerings such as sesame-crusted seared tuna.
This particular evening, starters included their popular Manhattan clam chowder and savory cheese soufflé. Next, my husband and I tucked into an expertly cooked eight-ounce filet, easily cut with a table knife and served with a sumptuous, red wine rosemary-plum reduction and mashed potatoes. The pork loin stuffed with apple-date filling epitomized comfort food. Our favorite, the roasted Atlantic salmon was served over a satisfying, slightly sweet corn pudding. It played well off the lemon tarragon sauce drizzled over the fish.
“We like to put dishes on the menu that people won’t cook at home, so that we can offer something different but still familiar,” says Jeff.
The dessert trio always includes the signature baked chocolate truffle that will delight serious chocoholics. According to Jeff, the other two desserts change on a whim. That evening, he served crème Brule and a coconut-filled lime cupcake.
Holidays continue to impress at J.C. Wyatt House. Jim showed us photos of their spooky Halloween dinner. At Christmas, he embellishes every room with festive trees and garlands. And for Valentine’s, the five-course meal books up quickly.
Visit JCWyatt.net for more information.
The Russell, Kansas City
February 2021
The Russell invites diners to tuck into dishes that highlight fresh herbs, local farm cheeses and the smokiness of a wood-fired Argentinean grill. Caterers and restaurateurs Amante Domingo and Heather White have filled this former flower shop with vintage finds, high-back chairs and plaid pillows cozied up to substantial oak tables.
Headlining the seasonal menu, Amante built the grill that inspires daily dishes alongside the printed menu. Growing up near St. Joseph on his family’s 150-acre organic farm before becoming a West Coast sushi chef, Amante now sources from many of those same area farmers. Heather and her husband moved from Vancouver where she established a 15-store cupcake business.
“Heather and I started out catering, but people were pulling at the door so we opened for lunch,” says Amante.
Then Covid hit. Curbside “black glove service” was up-and-running that first week serving higher-end “to-go.” Their reimagined business plan included selling entire quiches and opening for dinner, alongside helping fellow business owners sell flowers and produce.
On a Tuesday evening, my husband and I ordered at the counter and grabbed a properly-spaced window table. Our server brought out truffle cheese toast—hot-off-the-grill sourdough topped with ricotta-like sheep cheese, melted sharp cheddar and truffle aioli—the ultimate comfort food. From-scratch vegetable beef soup featured chunks of shredded roast and veggies in a thick beef broth. One flakey, rosemary-butter biscuit was definitely enough for two.
A friend had raved about the fire-roasted root salad. It deserved those accolades, topped with grilled salmon, hickory-smoked almonds and tangy-sweet molasses vinaigrette. My husband’s generous salmon bowl came with hickory-smoked almonds, bacon, goat cheese and wood-fired chimichurri dressing.
The tasty veggie burger, dressed with avocado mash, tomato, hummus and arugula, has been mistaken for non-vegetarian by customers. It held its own compared to the excellent beef burger, The Russell. Peppercorn beef brisket came topped with truffle aioli, gouda, arugula and caramelized onions.
Heather’s mouthwatering baked goods tempted from the minute I arrived.
According to these energetic entrepreneurs, an equestrian-themed concept, Taylor, will open at 39th and Main this spring. Diners can expect Euro-fare, an expanded bakery and high tea served upstairs.
Visit TheRussellOnMain.com for more information.