The Russell, Kansas City
February 2021
The Russell invites diners to tuck into dishes that highlight fresh herbs, local farm cheeses and the smokiness of a wood-fired Argentinean grill. Caterers and restaurateurs Amante Domingo and Heather White have filled this former flower shop with vintage finds, high-back chairs and plaid pillows cozied up to substantial oak tables.
Headlining the seasonal menu, Amante built the grill that inspires daily dishes alongside the printed menu. Growing up near St. Joseph on his family’s 150-acre organic farm before becoming a West Coast sushi chef, Amante now sources from many of those same area farmers. Heather and her husband moved from Vancouver where she established a 15-store cupcake business.
“Heather and I started out catering, but people were pulling at the door so we opened for lunch,” says Amante.
Then Covid hit. Curbside “black glove service” was up-and-running that first week serving higher-end “to-go.” Their reimagined business plan included selling entire quiches and opening for dinner, alongside helping fellow business owners sell flowers and produce.
On a Tuesday evening, my husband and I ordered at the counter and grabbed a properly-spaced window table. Our server brought out truffle cheese toast—hot-off-the-grill sourdough topped with ricotta-like sheep cheese, melted sharp cheddar and truffle aioli—the ultimate comfort food. From-scratch vegetable beef soup featured chunks of shredded roast and veggies in a thick beef broth. One flakey, rosemary-butter biscuit was definitely enough for two.
A friend had raved about the fire-roasted root salad. It deserved those accolades, topped with grilled salmon, hickory-smoked almonds and tangy-sweet molasses vinaigrette. My husband’s generous salmon bowl came with hickory-smoked almonds, bacon, goat cheese and wood-fired chimichurri dressing.
The tasty veggie burger, dressed with avocado mash, tomato, hummus and arugula, has been mistaken for non-vegetarian by customers. It held its own compared to the excellent beef burger, The Russell. Peppercorn beef brisket came topped with truffle aioli, gouda, arugula and caramelized onions.
Heather’s mouthwatering baked goods tempted from the minute I arrived.
According to these energetic entrepreneurs, an equestrian-themed concept, Taylor, will open at 39th and Main this spring. Diners can expect Euro-fare, an expanded bakery and high tea served upstairs.
Visit TheRussellOnMain.com for more information.