LE BAO, Columbia
November 2021
Jina Yoo’s trajectory to culinary success has been anything but conventional. Yoo relocated from South Korea to study pipe organ at Indiana University and became a classical pianist. She never dreamed that she would eventually open two Asian-inspired restaurants, consult at a third and teach other restaurateurs. However, in 2007, Jina Yoo’s Asian Bistro opened. It was so well received that she opened La Bao three years ago in the North Village Arts District.
“When I started out, I loved cooking but had no experience,” says Yoo. “Literally, the first day, we had a line outside. I had no idea which ticket to cook first, but I learned by experience.”
Recipes are original. Yoo’s process is to find a dish that she likes and study the ingredients before she makes it her own. She compares recipes to music where there’s always a melody, or outstanding flavor, with supporting notes complementing the main flavor profile.
Le Bao features an inventive counter-service menu combining Asian fusion with a contemporary American twist. Dumpling-like baos act like rice or noodles. Yoo stuffs them with American comfort food playing off traditional Asian flavors such as spicy pork, lemongrass chicken or shrimp tempura.
“Asian street food is super fun. When I visited my dad in Korea, he would take me to the market, and that was inspiring,” says Yoo. “I actually learned Korean recipes here, but my background helps me combine ingredients when I experiment.”
For dinner, my sister and I ordered several buns filled with lemongrass chicken, Philly cheesesteak and, most popular, fried chicken. Growing up, Yoo and her dad loved fried chicken, which is prepared differently in Korea. At the restaurant, Yoo brines the meat and uses a wet batter, Korean spices and an undisclosed flour—one of her trade secrets—all of which creates deliciously crispy fried chicken.
Bao dough, made daily from scratch, comes filled with barbecue pulled pork, vegetable curry and more. Jina’s chicken nachos, topped by black bean aioli, quickly became a favorite of ours. The hearty chicken Ramen bowl was served with steamy scratch broth and handmade noodles from New Jersey. Chili oil, swirled into the soup, delivered a satisfying kick.
To finish, we ordered both the fruit and s’mores variation of the “hotteok,” a filled sweet Korean pancake.
La Bao also sells a variety of beverages. The ultra-modern upstairs bar makes the perfect spot for happy hour or an event.
Visit LeBaoEatery.com for more information.