By Elizabeth Hey

In 1996, Todd and Susan Schapira opened Abigail’s in the former Mt. Nebo Baptist Church. Five years later, they moved to Rocheport’s historic Central Street corridor. It’s no wonder that Abigail’s receives high praises considering the Schapira’s zeal for culinary innovation and almost 50 years of combined experience in the restaurant business.

Both Mizzou grads, Todd and Susan met lifeguarding in the summer. After college, Susan trained Todd at a Columbia restaurant, and “the rest is history,” according to Susan. Both dreamed of opening a restaurant but wanted to be involved with their young family. That’s when Rocheport popped up on their radar.

“We literally live 20 seconds away with our two teens and five, crazy Boston Terriers,” says Susan. “We still wear many hats, and at Sunday lunch, the entire family works at the restaurant, which is named after our daughter.”

The menu—written on a dry erase board—changes daily based on seasonal produce.

Susan’s inspiration often comes while eating out or thumbing through magazines. Todd does more research, but many recipes are simply created. Diners can always expect beef, seafood and pasta with lamb, pork and veal alternating into the menu. Reservations are a must, especially on weekends. Even on a Thursday night, the 35-seat restaurant was full.

“I love to get local produce from a farm near the river called the Veggie Patch,” says Susan. “The owner stops by every Friday afternoon, and I shop from the back of his loaded pickup.”

To start our dinner, my husband and I ordered the wild rice and apple pancake with brie, an amazing combination of sweet and savory. As an entrée, I couldn’t pass up the lobster, shrimp and scallop ravioli topped with fresh basil and Asiago cream sauce, surprisingly light and cooked to perfection. Susan doesn’t offer traditional Italian-style dishes; instead she might use a marinara made from peppers and summer squash topped with cashews and feta. In the fall, the pasta might incorporate butternut squash topped with dried cherries, nuts and blue cheese. Her sweet lemon pasta was included in Southern Living’s “Off the Eaten Path” cookbook, and the Washington Post picked it up, too.

“I’m a huge fan of our pasta dishes, and I have a hard time going out for pasta because I feel I can make something better,” Susan explains.

We also ordered the excellent pork tenderloin medallions accompanied by an apricot chipotle. One extremely well-traveled diner remarked that his petite beef fillets topped with Boursin cheese and a balsamic reduction were some of the best he had eaten anywhere.

Dessert can be a difficult decision since Abigail’s is known for seasonal pies and cakes. The moist coconut cake and decadent nut toffee pie confirmed that reputation. There are usually eight desserts to choose from—fortunately, all justifiable after a day on the Katy Trail.

Visit online at Abigails-Restaurant.com.